Nashville Lifestyles names Mogar in their Top 20 wines for Nashville
Top 20 Locally Available Wines
A score of the best locally available wines
By James Hensley — December 1, 2008
Whether you’re ready or not, the holidays are upon us and there can be no
doubt that the accompanying hubbub is enough to make your head spin. That said,
the last thing you want to be doing right now is wading through oodles of
different wines guessing which one would make a great gift, which would complete
your holiday meal, or be perfect for tailgating, or make your Super Bowl party a
hit. Hence, my buyer’s guide, featuring 20 of the best wines I’ve experienced
over the past year.
While I’ve tasted plenty of fantastic wines this
year, the wines reviewed here stood out not only for flavor but for value, as
well. These wines deliver a lot of bang for your buck. More importantly, they’re
wines that should be available to you around town through December and January.
(While the national wine magazines are great, they often review products that
aren’t available in Tennessee; the wines I list below are all available in
Nashville, so your retailer should have them, or at least be able to get them
for you.) Also, the wines vary in price and flavor so that you can find the wine
that best fits your needs. Happy hunting! And, of course, drinking!
White Wines
Umani Ronchi “Exclamation Point” Verdicchio Del Castelli Jesi Classico
2006
Marche, Italy
$12 to $15
A brisk and acidic palate-pleaser
showing citrus and almonds flavors. Clean your whistle with this little gem and
then try a crab cake. You’ll be thanking me later (your welcome). An easy,
simple yet delightful Italian white that’s a great change of pace from Pinot
Grigio.
Four Bears Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Sonoma County, California
$14 to $17
A great Sauvignon Blanc that’s a welcome change of pace from
those super grapefruit-y New Zealand offerings. Some of the wine does see some
oak and it makes the tropical aspects of the grape come through while retaining
the crisp citrus notes you expect. You end up with a grapefruit and pineapple
nose that persists through the palate along with honeydew melon and lemon on the
finish. Delicious.
Four Vines Naked Chardonnay 2007
Santa Barbara,
California
$14 to $17
A very easy wine that should be appealing to a wide
range of people. The “naked” part refers to the fact that it sees no oak. The
wine is light straw in color with hints of tropical fruits on the nose. These
follow through on the palate with a soft, creamy mouth-feel and just a hint of
butter. A crowd-pleaser.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina Sannio DOC
2006
Monte Taburno, Italy
$18 to $22
Made from 100 percent Falanghina.
It’s all hand-harvested and only the first pressing goes into this wine. It has
a great nose of tropical fruits like pineapple and banana but shows crisp citrus
flavors and a flinty minerality on the palate. What a thirst-quencher. Perfect
with shellfish or sushi.
Chateau St. Michelle Eroica Riesling
2006
Columbia Valley, Washington
$24 to $27
Dr. Earnest Loosen has
teamed up with Chateau St. Michelle to create this outstanding wine. The color
is like that of thinned honey, and the nose is full of apples and herbs. The
palate is full of Golden Delicious apples and honey with a hint of green apple
tartness on the finish. It’s sweet enough to please the Riesling lover but not
so sweet as to be unapproachable by those that like a drier-style wine. All in
all, a well-made, very balanced wine.
Olabisi Chardonnay 2006
Suisun
Valley, California
$35 to $40
The fruit here comes from the “Double Top
Secret Vineyard,” which makes you wonder what to expect even before you take a
sip. In the glass it shows a light straw color. The nose shows pineapple and
toasted oak. It’s creamy on the palate with delicate apple and peach notes
mingled with a touch of minerality. The finish is long and leaves you with
toasted oak and apples. The acidity is there but not overbearing; overall, I’d
say this is a fantastically balanced and incredibly elegant wine.
Red Wines
Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California
$12 to $15
The best
under-$15 Cabernet I’ve had in quite some time. No cork but rather Zork, a kind
of rubber cap cork combination that needs no corkscrew to be opened, making it
tailgate-ready. It has a dark ruby color with rich blackberry and baking spices
showing on both the nose and the palate and flavors of blueberry and chocolate
showing on the finish. It’s soft in the mouth and is sure to be a big hit in the
months to come.
Tercos Sangiovese 2005
Mendoza, Argentina
$12 to
$15
Italy and Argentina come smashing into each other in this great value
wine. While you find the flavors you expect in a Sangiovese, it’s definitely a
New World version of what the grape can do. Dark red with purle hints, it has a
light, earthy nose of berries. It drinks very easily with cherry notes and a
hint of bell pepper. Would be great with pasta in a red sauce.
Pagos De
Mogar Roble 2004
Ribera Del Duero, Spain
$19 to $22
This 100 percent
Tempranillo shows a lot of fruit. It’s a deep red in color with a full nose of
sweet plums, is big and round in the mouth with smooth popping flavors of plum,
blueberry, and some cocoa and herbs, while showing fine tannins on a medium
finish.
Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley,
California
$19 to $22
If you’re a fan of the fruit-forward style of
Cabernet then this is just the thing for you. The winemaker explains that making
a wine and buying a wine are both an educated guess, and to some extent that’s
true. After all, you read wine reviews to form an educated guess, right? Well,
they guessed right on this one. It’s full of blackberry on the nose and on the
palate. The tannins are silky and it fills the mouth with a velvety feel. It’s
very easy to drink. Fans of this style of Cabernet will be pleased, to be sure.
Reilly’s Old Bushvine Grenache 2005
Clare Valley, Australia
$20
to $24
This is unlike any Grenache I’ve had before—it’s silky and rich with
cherry and blackberry, along with a hint of tart raspberry and mocha on the
finish. It’s a plush, fruit-forward wine that will blow you away. With or
without food, it’s a middleweight knockout.
Sebastiani Secolo
2005
Sonoma, California
$35 to $40
This is a Meritage-style blend that
drinks like a much more expensive wine. It’s well-balanced with good fruit, fine
tannins and a lingering acidity. That said, this wine is a cherry bomb. There’s
cherry throughout the whole experience: On the nose, fresh cherries and spice;
on the palate, black cherry, blackberry and walnut; and on the finish, a smokey
cherry and touch of spice.
Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2005
Napa
Valley, California
$35 to $40
This is a Zinfandel drinker’s Zinfandel.
It’s complex and bold with lots of layering and excellent balance. There are
flavors of blackberry, pepper, cloves, raspberry and plums, with a finish that’s
long and will leave you wanting more. Well worth the price from an outstanding
winemaker. Pair with your favorite steak and relax.
Eagle Trace Latitude
38 2005
Napa Valley, California
$80 to $90
This Meritage is produced in
pretty small quantities and is well worth searching out. Its full, dark ruby
color is complemented by a nose of blackberry and spice. The palate shows more
blackberry on the entry along with raspberry and black pepper, with mocha on the
finish. The tannins are fine and the wine has a warming affect on you. A
superlative wine. Really.
Krupp Brothers “The Doctor” 2005
Napa
Valley, California
$80 to $90
This was my favorite wine at the Franklin
Wine Festival held in October. While the entire Krupp table was out of this
world, The Doctor was the star of the show. It’s a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot,
Cabernet and Malbec. The word “rich” doesn’t begin to describe this wine. Wow! A
complex nose of plums with raspberry and vanilla accentuate the black cherry,
cedar, and baking spices on the palate. Complex, balanced and
attention-grabbing. It’s the perfect little-known super-premium wine for the
serious wine-lover on your gift list. They’ll thank you many, many times. Maybe
they’ll even share.
Champagne and Sparkling Wines
Cristalino Brut Cava Non Vintage
Penedes, Spain
$10 to $13
An
easy-to-find Cava, and it certainly won’t break the bank. It’s quite crisp and
very dry with light citrus and stone fruit flavors. A lot of bang for the buck,
here. Perfect for serving to large groups or just a few friends. Makes a great
mimosa the next day, too.
Zardetto Prosseco Brut Non
Vintage
Conegliano, Italy
$14 to $17
A pretty solid Prosseco. It’s dry
in comparison with some of its competitors, but it’s still very approachable by
those that don’t drink bubbly. It’s light and crisp, with peach and tropical
notes on the nose. Look for hints of apples on the palate with a fair amount of
acidity to balance the wine. Easy to drink and easy on the holiday budget.
Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Heredad Cava, Non Vintage
Torrelavit,
Spain
$23 to $26
The first thing you notice about this bottle is the
bottle—it has a large, stylish pewter base that helps to keep the wine cold
during serving. It also features a hand-blown glass bottle and the family crest
in pewter attached to the neck, all of which makes it look like it’s a lot more
expensive than it is. But there’s more than good looks here. This is a delicious
Cava with good fruit notes and a yeasty finish. A good bottle for the price and
a super gift idea.
G.H. Mumm, Cordon Rouge Brut Non Vintage
Reims,
France.
$40 to $45
Mumm has been producing this Cuvee consistently for
more than 100 years, and that’s why it’s a perennial favorite for any
celebration. The wine is medium-bodied with citrus notes of grapefruit on the
nose and has a palate of apple with hints of caramel. Drink with lighter dishes
and soft cheeses like Brie or St. Andre.
Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label
Brut Non Vintage
Reims, France.
$43 to $47
A classic mainstay of the
Champagne world. Heck, I’m having a flute while I write this column. This is for
the person who wants a full, rich Champagne that’s both bold and elegant at the
same time. The bubbles are fine and create a cloudlike mousse that dissipates to
show the golden color of the wine itself. The Yellow Label is big enough to hold
up to heavy dining, so remember this one for that holiday dinner.








